It is hard
to explain human needs and global resources here sometimes. When I think of
poverty in Africa, I think of not having enough money to feel yourself and your
children. I think of people dying from diseases that could be easily prevented.
I think of war and political corruption and all the pictures you see in the
news. Children with bloated stomachs from starvation. Civil Wars. AIDS Statistics.
Here in
Nkwanta, people do not have it easy. But there is not an AIDS epidemic here.
You do not see orphans everywhere. Most families are eating enough. Children do
not have distended bellies. The political climate is generally peaceful. People
have never experienced the horrors of a civil war. People lives in houses with
good roofs and electricity. They have ways of getting around besides just their
feet.
So, with
just hearing that, it is possible to say that things are good here. But as it
becomes more and more apparent, Ghana and America are like two different worlds
and this can make it difficult to explain one place to the other.
My family
is well-off in Nkwanta. They have a house with 3 bedrooms, a living room, a
dining room, a small kitchen, and even a bathroom and a shower. They have
concrete floors, electricity, and ceiling fans. They have a tv and satellite.
They have sturdy furniture to use. They have a water pipe to get water from
inside and outside the house (although this water is not necessarily “clean”).
My family
has a car which is a bit of a luxury here (then you don’t get so dusty riding
in dry season or wet riding in rainy season). They eat three meals a day and
get adequate protein. They can afford to buy some filtered water to drink. They
currently have health insurance.
However,
the electricity continually fails. The water pipes continually break or get
blocked. The water sources are not safe. The meat they eat would be snubbed by
most Americans.
The roads
are so horrifically bad that the car continually breaks down and the family
struggles to pay to fix it. You must pray that your farm does well so you have enough
yams to eat. My family can only afford filtered water for the father and I. The
children drink unclean water and sometimes they get sick. And sometimes they do
not have health insurance to bring them to the hospital for treatment. The
hospital which only has two doctors and fairly low standards of sanitation.
I see the
women working outside. All day. They work and work to sell things to make
money. And then they work and work to make each meal. When they are sitting, it
only means that there are no customers. And I look at them working, working,
working and it seems joyless to sit next to that hot fire boiling some yams.
Then pounding some yams. Etc. And I wonder “What do they think about their
life? Do they feel fulfilled? If they could dare to think of a different life,
what would they want? Where would they live and what job would they have? Or do
they like this way of living but just wish that it were easier to give their
children better food and more opportunities? I don’t know.
And the
men. They put immense pressure on themselves to be able to fully provide for
their family. No help wanted. It would be shameful to have your wife help pay
for the food. And so you work. You work with whatever job you get, whichever
one pays the best. There is not rooms for dreams of doing work that you really
love or doing fun activities that do not lead to money. And I realize that my
major is teaching me to play an instrument that I will never make much money
off of. I am playing because it is fulfilling. Because I love it. Because we
have room in our culture for an appreciation of art for arts sake. And if you
did get a dream job here, the dream job was one that has a big salary. And you
probably had to pay a lot of money to get the education for that dream job,
like to become a doctor. And then you left. You left Ghana because you could.
Because you could make more money in America and that was more important than
keeping your traditional ways here, than staying close to your extended family.
So things
are not easy here. Money makes a mess of things. We need it and it is hard to
get. And so your life suffers. And there is need for development. Something
that nobody in Nkwanta can really do anything about. You must wait. Wait for
the economy to gain strength. For politicians to one day see the needs of the
masses and do something about it. Because, until that point, most of these
needs will remain unmet.
So how
does a Ghanaian feel when a white man comes to his town, to his Ghana? They
seem to have a sort of reverence for America. America and Ghana share some ties
and Ghana sees America as their goal. They want to have an economy like ours.
Development like ours. And they think that all white people are rich. The
thought of a poor white man is just ridiculous. And the thought of non-whites
in America is also ridiculous. Don’t people turn white when they go there for
awhile? For them white is not just a racial identity but also a status, a way
of living. That is why someone who lives like a white man should, by all means,
become a white man.
So I am
struggling when my host brother tells me that it is hard for him to believe
that there is a poor white man. So I show him pictures of homeless white men
and I explain what their life is like. He tells me that he does not believe
that there are people of color, people like him, living in America so I show
him pictures and statistics. But it is still so hard for him to process. What
is missing in our education systems?
And then he
tells me that he does not believe that there are African men who can do some of
the things that white men do. It is just not possible. He points to my
computer. He says, that was made by white men. And so I try to show him how
anyone with the right training could make this. I tell him that we are
different colors but have the same inherent abilities. That right now neither
of us know how to make a computer, but both of us could possibly do it. And so
I work to find information about influential black men to show him that they
can accomplish things too. Important things. Things that they figured out
before white men. I make him promise that he will try to think differently.
That if he tells himself that it is not possible, that that is only putting
himself down. And I see that possibly one of the worst problems here is a lack
of information. Information that affirms the lives of all people, the abilities
of all people. And then I also remember that this cannot change completely
unless people are given opportunity. My host brother is smart. He could do many
things but does not have the opportunities. And neither does anyone else around
here. How is he supposed to think that he can do anything substantial if nobody
else around him is able to? But the white men are. How do we change this?
This last part on conceptions of U.S./whites reminds me of Joel Robbins' book in Anthropology of Global Christianity. You were in that class right? The group he was with thought similarly. Here in Uganda I have found some idealist attitudes towards the U.S., but they are much more informed. They know about other racial groups, e.g. a friend was asking me about how different racial groups were treated (Native American, African American, etc.) I would find this very frustrating, so my sympathies are with you. Here I have emphasized U.S.'s problems in order to demonstrate we are not a perfect ideal. Although they are not as pessimistic as me, they at least believe what I am saying!
ReplyDeleteElena, thanks for sharing all of this! I wonder if your host brother remembers that Pres. Barack Obama visited Ghana a few years back, in '09 I believe. Talk about an influential person with African roots! Cheers.
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